Before 'n' After rusproofing. Since 1987 (Ex Newbury 1999 to 2008). Now near Rugby (2 miles from junction 2 of M6). Borrow our courtesy car and have a great day out while we rustproof your vehicle.

Before 'n' After improved Waxoyl - with 5 year guarantee

  • Standard Waxoyl does not resist abrasion In 2008 I started to put an anti-abrasion additive in standard waxoyl. Why? Because standard waxoyl will not resist abrasion. This is why people on forums talk about it being “washed off” when it's applied to wheel arches.
  • DOES resist water In fact a properly applied application of waxoyl will resist any amount of water, even a moderate pressure wash. (A powerful pressure washer equipped with a pencil jet, it if is held in direct contact with the coating will remove it especially if it's a hot pressure wash – sometimes referred to as “steam clean as will a cold pressure wash is used right up close to remove mud.”).
  • Waxoyl abraded off So why is it being “washed off” in the wheel arches? Well on older cars which weren't equipped with plastic wheel arch liners, when the car was in motion, the wheels were constantly throwing grit at the factory underseal coated steel wheel arch surface and this would abrade off any waxoyl.
  • Hammerite underseal with 40% bitumen - a solution? Hammerite products produce a “Waxoyl underseal” which is 60% waxoyl and 40% bitumen. This does resist abrasion. However, the added bitumen means that there is a trade off in rustproofing capability and the waxoyl underseal is not quite as good at killing and preventing corrosion as standard waxoyl especially on some of the very rusty Land Rovers that I do.
  • Pressure washer on mud abrades off standard waxoyl This problem of the waxoyl being abraded off is particularly acute on some Land Rovers which are used extensively for off roading. Owners want to remove sometimes very heavy, caked on mud with a pressure washer. In fact, doing this regularly has always been recommended to prevent corrosion taking hold and galloping away. If you want to remove the mud, use a fan jet, not a pencil jet and stand well back. Don't be too zealous. Just remove the worst of it. Any residual mud sitting on top of my coating is not going to do any harm.
  • Secret ingredient found during research at British Science Library. During my 2 month research stint at the British Science Library, see Our history I discovered a much better additive for adding impact resistance to waxoyl than bitumen and only a tiny amount is needed – just 2%. Because so little is needed, unlike bitumen there is no trade-off in rustrpoofing capability. I have been using this additive to make "Before 'n' After improved waxoyl" since 2008 and I've observed when re-treating customers' Land Rovers at the end of the 5 year guarantee that another benefit is that it reduces oxidation of the waxoyl layer.
  • How to test? How do I know it works? In theory there is an instrument called a gravolater which is supposed to throw grit at a surface to mimick the wheels of a car. You can use this to test impact resistance but I have never been able to find a laboratory which used one and I have never seen a convincing incarnation of one on the internet.
  • So I was not able to really tell how well the additive was working until re-treating some of the cars I had done years earlier.
  • A customer brings convincing evidence that it works! A customer from Truro in Cornwall brought his Defender back for re-treatment after 5 years and gave me convincing evidence that the additive was working as I expected and hoped. The Defender in question was already 8 years old and had a fair amount of rust on it when we first treated it and the coating has worked very well. There was no sign of rust breaking through. So as I had expected, the additive was not reducing the anti-corrosion capabilities of the waxoyl. In fact it seemed to have enhanced them by preventing oxidisation of the coating.
  • (You might have seen this is my adds in LRO) This is what Gary Webb said:
  • "I made the 270 mile journey from Truro to bring back my 95 Defender for the 5 year renewal as Chris recommends, although after 5 years it looked just like the day iw was done – coating perfectly intact and no signs of rust in spite of me using it regularly off road and on the beach to launch a boat. I go green laning about once a month or every six weeks and get it coated liberally not only with mud but also mining waste which is really abrasive. I always jet wash it afterwards and I can prove that this would scour of ordinarly waxoyl because I put tubular turrets on the front and waxoyled them myself. I have had to re-waxoyl them about 6 times while Chris's "Before 'n' After improved waxoyl" just shrugs this treatment off." Note from Chris: the additive I use at 2% to achieve this effect is now also added to the new "CR coating with 10 year guarantee".
  • Gary's testimonial has been so useful to me that it was only fair that in 2021 I did a free uprade to the CR coaing with 10 year guarantee for him.